One More Saturday Night
“Everybody dancing at the local armory with a basement full
of dynamite and live artillery, temperature keep rising everybody getting high,
come the rockin stroke of midnight whole place is gonna fly” Ace
On Saturday night the students put on a remarkable
program for their peers and the community. The event was in honor of Sherib
Century which is celebrating 100 years of education in Bhutan. And we were here!
I know I am bias but my 7 and 8 students stole the show. The class 8 boys did a
dance with two boys standing on each other’s shoulders like a man on stilts.
Class 7 did a hilarious skit in Sharshop which started with four boys acting
drunk on ara. But the capper was the bamboo dance. This tribal dance was Indian
in Origin and the boys were shirtless with painted bodies and headdress while
the girls wore beautifully colorful kiras. The boys clacked together the giant
bamboo shoots while the girls hopped through in time. Wangmo provided the
soundtrack with a haunting melody. I was astounded at the creativity and
execution from my kids. The evening closed with a group of class ten girls
doing traditional dance with candles resting in their palms. I sat next to
Karlos, Sonam, and Butterfly my three closest friends. I tried my hand in
flirting with Tswering a hottie from Zongposo I had met once before. Single
women are a rare and precious commodity in this part of East Bhutan. Not that I
am hunting for babes but it’s nice to know this rare species exists. People automatically
get married after school and bachelors over twenty five are rare. The culture
dictates that people must marry and have kids to take care of their parents in
old age. In the remote villages people traditionally marry at 14. The only
exception would be the religious community including monks and nuns. As for my
students they are intelligent, funny, and speak multiple languages. Teaching
English can be challenging and students are burdened with learning all subjects
in a foreign tongue. I can remember Sister Martha reaming me on Spanish at Marin
Catholic and have so much respect for ESL learners around the world. It takes
me many tries just to learn one Sharshop word from the students. My students
often speak Dzonglish a combo of English and Dzonka. In Korea they spoke
Konglish. The school program cheered me
up considerably and I am spending my rainy Sunday sweeping, correcting
portfolios and planning lessons. Exams take up the last month of school so
believe it or not we are in the home stretch. In the final months of my first
official year of teaching I want to put in my best effort. Today I slept until
noon which was the first time I have slept past 10 A.M my entire time in the
kingdom. I can remember slumbering entire weekends away in Korea when I first
arrived. Teaching takes a lot of energy and the hours extend beyond the
classroom. I have learned a lot this year and have many areas to improve on. I
have learned to some degree what works and what doesn’t. For instance hand
gestures are great for teaching vocabulary. And portfolios should be kept in separate
folders by me and not in their crumbling government issued notebooks. It has
taken a long time to get my bearings in Bhutan and to be honest is an ongoing
process.
The deluge continues and the temperature drops. Rain
drops catch in spider webs and the wheel turns towards autumn. I look forward
to observing this new season in Bhutan. I remember when I arrived wearing my
puffy Korean coat and running my tiny heater 24/7. My cement hut was usually
colder then outside. Overall Tsenkharla has a favorable climate as the summer
never got unbearably hot like in Autsho or Rangjoon. Everywhere in the kingdom
gets tons of rain but Phongmay received double compared to Tsenkharla. We all
have our challenges and that sweet woman who throws the darts in Thimphu has
incredible power. Since I requested the east I can’t complain. I remember when I
got word of my placement and the water shortage. They promised it would be
fixed in 2012 and were still waiting. WTDL! It’s hard to believe I haven’t left
the LOT or is it the TOL in seven months and West Bhutan seems like a different
country. I can’t wait for mom and Ty’s visit to Thimphu at Christmas, although
it seems like years away from now.
Although I used to consider myself a nationalist I
realize we live in a global community. When one travels to other countries they
realize it is possible to love another land and still be a patriot. In fact
when you do travel you become a representative for your nation. This is
especially true when you are immersed. I hope I have helped to inspire students.
It’s hard to know ones role here but sense it’s important. The kingdom is
reluctant to allow foreign assistance, so HM must feel what we do is imperative.
The author takes his responsibilities seriously and hopes the reader gleans
that within the turmoil of “tiger.”
On my stroll in the forest an abi stopped me and gave
me a plastic bottle filled with warm fluid which I assumed was tea. When I got
home I sniffed the contents only to be overwhelmed by the smell of ara. I will
give it over to Karlos. Becky told me that our colleague Martha is on her way
in an ambulance to Mongor today and she may have typhoid. Several teachers have
been seriously ill this year and poor health is a harsh reality of living here.
Nobody has been healthy all the time and relative wellness is the best we can
ask for. I know I could be more cautious about what I eat but I must live my
life. I am confident that in time Martha will be able to return to her post.
For now we all put in our best effort and enjoy each day of this precious
adventure. But nowhere on earth is one reminded how tenuous each life is.
Bamboo Dance, 7A |
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