For ALL honourable
adversaries
“It was a sight of such kind that
when one had seen it, one could no longer wish to look at the rest of the earth”
Atlas Shrugged
I have been in
Bhutan for 19 months and today was one of many with both frustration and
elation. Class seven presented their trash posters to varying degrees of
success. I realize how daunting speaking publicly in English is for them. It
was nice to arrive after at the bell to see the students hard at work preparing
for their presentation. Principal La ambled by the room and peeked in briefly he
looks something like Ricky Henderson if Ricky was squatter and Bhutanese. For
class 9A we read Dawa under a tree in a circle on the lawn. I will really miss
that class especially the students who I taught two years. One of my former
students called me from Thimphu (Many BCF teachers give out their numbers) She
had placed second in her class but missed the rural life and she asked me to
say hello to all her friends. Afterschool I hiked up the mountain toward
Shakshang Goempa and met a young woman who had quit school to help her sick
mother herd cattle. She remarked her occupation was cow herder when I said I
was a teacher. Like other dropouts she spoke English more adeptly than some of
my class nine students and we had a ten minute confab. One PP girl in a dirty
school kira was frozen on the trail staring at a plant and was too shy to say
hello. I continued up through the verdant forest of oaks with ferns sprouting
from their branches, plots of maize and cabbage, along a ridge with expansive
views of both rivers. The trail was peppered with scarlet petals and of course
some plastic wrappers and cows and horsed grazed as I gingerly stepped around
them. Most prevalent out an incredible array of fragrant bushes of infinite
variety, this is the land of medicinal herbs after all. At a knoll that I
frequent was a new rainbow assortment of prayer flags, a cluster of vertical
flags interconnected with horizontal rainbow ones. Reminded me of the chill
domes I raced by on the fairgrounds. Well I have ample chill time now so I
stopped for a coke and a smile. (I’d like to buy the world a coke!) The flags
were stencilled with horses, Buddha’s, and other auspicious designs. It appears
others share my connection to that special rocky outcropping looking yonder into
Trashigang and beyond. Puffy dragon clouds swirled on the distant ridges near Kanglung
as if trailing from a phantom cigar and the fresh air buzzed with crickets,
birds, and unidentified flying objects. Over the phantasmagorical serenade one could
still hear the beating of solemn raven wings whooshing and threading through the
twilight en route to Darchin. The trail I followed winded through secret hollows,
emerald glades, terraced fields, and shimmering woodlands inclining towards
Shakshang but I stopped at a favorite Chorten enjoying the view of the
Kulongchu bounding from Yangtse via Tibet. (The Tibet near Yangtse is not the
high Plateau but rather 20,000 foot mountains) Sitting still I can only imagine
what lies beyond the horizon but I’m certain there is no place like HOME! Descending
the trail I saw the PP girl still ascending solo and had to laugh inside at how
similar we are both lost in our own worlds of imagination. Reaching back at
Tsenkharla I happened across some Class Seven students practicing dance for the
upcoming Education Meet in Yangtse and then slid stealing into the mess for
some smokin’ hot Emadatsi.
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