Well, my
stern demeanour yesterday brought peachy results today as the kids were
attentive except 9C who were listless. Last night I had a tete with a western Bhutan
colleague who shared reservations about aspects of teaching here. This
particular teacher was in the familiar phase of being too hard on themselves
for not getting through to the kids. This teacher works extra hours tutoring
and I assured them that they were up against a system of rote learning and kids
from poor back rounds. The truth is WE ARE improving students English ability
here but results seem shaky at times. As for Mr. Tim I heralded a successful day
in the classroom especially class seven. The topic was descriptive writing so I
had them describe basic objects like an apple or pencil without naming the
object. They had to define the objects by texture, shape, color, and etcetera. This
led to them searching for things outside to describe without naming and in
their own twist they all did it in riddle form! We had a ball and they actually
groaned AHHHH! When the final bell rang for dismissal. The downer was class 9C
who are very remedial. In class seven hands fly in the air whereas class 9C are
paralysed at the prospect of speaking out loud. I have already spoken of this
phenomenon of students from last year speaking less, suddenly appearing self conscious
and aloof. I’m finding it a difficult age to influence but nevertheless I am
happy to be working with many students from last year. Back to the triumph of
the afternoon class seven what a marvellous site observing your students
utterly enthralled in what they are doing, little elfish Sither Wangmo barefoot
and cross legged in the grass wrapped in her kira was intently studying a yellow
and white flower. Pema absorbed in describing the bark of the cypress and so
on. They even listened attentively eager to solve the riddles, “It’s a... a...
bee!” The whole point of the exercise was to observe nature closely and with a
keen eye and then write about it. There cleverness shone through and I merely
sat back as an observer looking up the bottom end of a looking glass. Afterschool
I took puppy Dawa Dema for a walk down the channel and wrestled with her in the
overgrown grass by a whitewashed Mani wall. She’s hilarious as she just torpedoes
her entire yellow body at me, jaws agape for a strike. She doesn’t even bother
with a running start just lifts off right where she falls like a fluffy heat-seeking
missile. For a small dog she plays rough her sharp teeth sinking deeper into my
arm each thrust. Finally I pinned her down as she recognizes a rough touch
since Bhutanese treat each other and pets like the three stooges. BONK! Perfect
evening strolling in a t-shirt even soaking a few straggling rays that eluded
the billowy clouds. The monsoon steam pastes the ridges and summery smells waft
around the air, I wonder what Dawa Dema smells sniffing the air manically. The
boon continues with Thursday Night Emadatsi and the cooks hook me up with
second share (Praise Shiva!) During prayer five minutes before young Sonam with
his signature sunken eyes hacks cedar bows with his mini machete and feeds the
perfumed fire, an offering to that enigmatic Buddhist god. He informs me that
he flunked English this term but I encourage him to come by for help and keep
trying. In reality his chances of passing the class ten exams next year are
astronomical but I want him to feel in the race and at least arrive in class
ten with his cronies. As I slump in the kitchen trying to be inconspicuous a
racket emerges outside as a snake is swimming in the gutter where the girls are
lining up for rice. As I continue to eat
boys pop their head in the window asking “Is it delicious, Sir?” I reply with
polished chestnuts like “MMHHHMMM!” “Sure is” “Yep” And so forth.
I finished
Tom Sawyer and I’m sailing on to rereading Huck Finn. I enjoyed TS for the
simplicity and couldn’t help marvelling at the similarities between a Southern
village in the 19th Century and Tsenkharla today especially
regarding the kiddie culture. Mark Twain is masterful in creating character and
only Tolstoy is his equal in the few books I’ve tackled. Both the characters of
Levin and Tom seem so real to me in their thought processes and I admire
fiction writers since I have no aptitude in that arena. Before leaving for
Bhutan I tracked down a former English Professor of mine who happened to be
playing in a band at the historic WOW hall in Eugene. At intermission I reintroduced
myself after years of absence and asked his advice on writing. “He told me to
write what only I can” Well sorry to say y’all are suffering for that advice.
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